Ash clouds

Day 4

Cloudy, cloudy and very cloudy. That was pretty much today's day.

The idea was to spend the day around Sakurajima and soak in it's beauty.

First stop of the day was at Senganen in Kagoshima, a beautiful garden built in 1658 that is worth visiting. Cherry trees, bamboos, pine trees, ponds, a pretty japanese house.

A trek up the garden hill took to the viewing of the Sakurajima and we were hoping the clouds might dissipate so we went up. Half way through, and after Jorge and Manuel completely missed it, I noticed there was a snake in the middle of the stairs, about 40-50cm long. I panicked and ran to Jorge, mid-way on the step, screaming, crying, sobbing and obsessively looking around to make sure there weren't any more. I found out I really dislike snakes! As Manuel pointed out, my screams were bad enough to set the snake zig-zaging out of there quickly so surely it wouldn't do any harm. It took some time but I got myself together and managed to get to the top. The view was indeed very good, you could see the shape of the Sakurajima through the clouds.

Of to the ferry to cross the bay to Sakurajima peninsula. The trip was fast, about 15min, but it was enough time for another eruption of the great vulcano.

Shorlty after we did a pit stop for food and it had a free foot bath with sea view on the parking area. Don't mind if I do! We had a snack soaking our feet in (very) hot water and watching Kinko Bay. There was a family near us and the children had a laugh watching us complaint about the tenperature of the water.

   

It wasn't long until Sakurajima had an eruption of ash, followed by a second and then a third. We glanced our eyes on the nearby locals and they were so relaxed we assumed that these kind of eruptions were common place and there was no need to be worried. A search on Wikipedia further confirmed our suspicions: Sakurajima had had 500 eruptions from January-August 2014!

At the peninsula there are several observation points of the top of the vulcano but also the cone and it's artificial channels (man-made to conduct the flow to the sea and away from the villages when a full eruption actually happens). The top of the vulcano is obviously off limits and there are only roads and pedestrian routes around the base.

We were spoiled tonight at dinner. The restaurant had an english menu! We had Yakiniku: grilled meat and vegetables that we grilled ourselves at the table. Tasty!

Overnight stay was at Kirishima Onsen (hot spring town) at the Kirishima Yaku National Park. We booked a japanese-style room with mountain view. This meaning that it comprises of a small hall where you take your shoes off and then a socialising area that turns into sleeping area at night and a closed veranda. On our return from dinner someone had made our beds. I love costumer service à la japonais!

Before bed we decided to have a hot spring bath. We put on the yukata, jacket and slipers provided by the hotel and off we went to the hotel's rotemburo (outdoor hot bath). They are segregated though, which means I went alone.

The baths are very organised. There are numbered sliper's pigeon holes, numbered lockers for valuables and numbered baskets for your clothes. The protocol is clear: strip (yes, all clothes off!), wash (facilities provided) and bathe (soak in!). There is an indoor bath tub, an outdoor bath tub and an outdoor jacuzzi, all made of stone with spring (hot and sulphurous) water. The oudoor area is really good, protected by vegetation and lovely cherry trees in full bloom. I tried the indoor bath first but it was so hot I couldn't cope with it. So I went for the outdoor jacuzzi first. It was lovely to soak in at night with cherry bloom petals falling on me, very relaxing. I then tried the indoor bath again but it was still hot, all I managed was to walk in it but definetely not stop and seat for a while. I also discovered a steam bath at 42 Celsius, this meaning I didn't stay in for long. I finished with a coldish shower.

The children in the hot baths were using it for recreation under their mothers supervision. The women were chatting away, some using a small towel to cover themselves outside the tub, some not at all. A very social experience, probably similar to the public baths in Roman times.

It is forbiden to take pictures at the baths but you can have a look here: http://www.kirikan.jp/en/index2.html#Onsen.